Monday, March 29, 2010

Sweet Nothings

Sydney and I enjoyed a lively, very full week with our friends Savannah and Tracy, who came all the way from MS to visit us. We toured Florence, Pisa, Venice, and the village of Fiesole together. We walked miles on end, ducked in a few museums, took in some breathtaking sights, and had some added adventures due to lack of planning and Italian public transportation (a lethal combination). All in all, it was a stellar week.


This past week was "spring break" although I feel guilty using that phrase because this entire semester is rather like a spring break. Sydney, of course, (being Sydney) had grand schemes. Jetting over to Spain was on the agenda. However, on Monday we sat down, took an honest look at our bank accounts, and decided that having money to make it home was multo importante. Ergo, we settled for a spring break in Florence, which, of course, isn't really settling at all. We took it slowly. We explored our surroundings. We flung open our doors to enjoy the blooms on our tree. We sat in the sunlight. We did nothing monumental. It was delightful.


On Monday we attempted to make homemade pasta and watched Pride and Prejudice with our pal Shannon.

On Tuesday we visited the church of Santa Maria Novella to see the famous painting Holy Trinity by Masaccio. Then we grabbed some gelato at the best gelateria in town, Grom.

On Wednesday I headed to the English cemetery. It was the perfect afternoon. I snapped some pictures, sat on a rock to draw daffodils, and pulled out my handy dandy nook (thanks Jamie) to read Vasari's Lives of the Artists.




On Thursday we found ourselves watching a parade of Medievals entering the oldest Renaissance piazza in Florence, celebrating traditional Florentine New Year. For a moment, it was possible to ignore the carnival in the piazza, block the city buses out of view, and be transported to the 15th century. In the midst of Brunelleschi's graceful archways and della Robbia's ceramic infants, the feather-clad, tights-wearing rainbow of Florence converged. It was magical.


On Friday I found an empty bench in our piazza. I watched the splashing fountain and the flock of pigeons and the boys practicing their juggling tricks. I attempted to draw the man dozing on the park bench and the highschoolers huddled near the fountain and the girl who stood pensively waiting under the archway. There are two problems with drawing from people-watching: they will not keep still (not even the sleeping ones), and they soon discover that someone is staring at them (except the sleeping ones). That evening we celebrated Sydney's 21st birthday by eating dinner at our favorite trattoria. I fall asleep dreaming of their tiramisu.



On Saturday we wandered. We headed down past the Arno River and followed an enchanting staircase. It took us through a narrow lane with stone walls concealing city views and olive groves like this one.

We came upon the most perfect benches in a little nook of velvety green grass. They overlook a valley of small crops, olive trees, and tennis courts. The red dome of Florence's cathedral gilmmers in the background. I sketched a quick scene and lamented the death of my camera battery as the sun set behind the verdant hills.


We continued our wandering into the twilight and found a fairy wood. It lies outside the walls of a church/monastery and is filled with Tuscan trees. (Side note: "Tuscan trees" can be found in the picture from the graveyard). I am perfectly sure that this wood is where the monks wander in the early hours of the morning. Because you know that they wander. (By this point it was dark, and, unfortunately, we have no photographic evidence of this part of our journey). From the woods, we walked up to the terrace of San Miniato, the church set high on a hill overlooking the city. With our backs to the church, we faced the glow of the moon and the lights of the city which gleamed brightly in the deep dusk. Perched on an obliging marble pillar, we sat watching the night clouds and reveling in the beauty of it all.

We awoke Sunday morning to the confusion of Italian daylight savings time. My cell phone was still on Mississippi time. Pre-daylight savings time. Try opening your sleepy eyes and attempting to do the math. It doesn't work out so well for girls like me (I did finally change my phone to Italian time, for the record). Needless to say, we were a little late for church. In the afternoon, we took a birthday picnic in the Boboli Gardens.


A white sheet spread among the clovers and wildflowers was the perfect location for napping in the sunshine and watching children play hide-and-seek amongst the hedges and sculptures of the old Medici grounds. And, of course, no picnic (or spring break) is complete without bare feet.


Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Roman Holiday

Princess Ann was overwhelmed with her royal duties. Though she was on a European tour, she could not escape the burdens of her throne; she could not live apart from her title of "Princess." Oh, how she longed to be just Ann! During her stop in Rome she made the bold decision to throw off the shackles of regality and embrace common life with vigor and passion and reckless abandon. She decided to take a Roman Holiday.


Princess Katie and Princess Sydney had much in common with Ann, and they too longed to be free of their titles. Okay, so they had nothing in common with Ann. They weren't princesses. They had no titles. And, quite frankly, if they had had titles, they definitely would not have gone around whining about the limitations of princesshood. In fact, they probably would've lived it up quite stupendously. Regardless of the estimable princesses they would have been, however, they were still commoners. Fortunately, they soon got over this fact and realized that Roman Holidays are fair game for all. After some thought, they rejoiced that a Roman Holiday would be much easier for them because they wouldn't have to break any rules or sneak out of any embassies while under the influence of narcotics (always a good thing to avoid, dear readers). With their spirits uplifted and their wills thus strengthened, they turned to each other and said with eerily synchronized spontaneity, "Rome, by all means Rome."



As stated above, Sydney and I began our altered Roman Holiday in a much simpler way than did Princess Ann. We took a train, and... that was it. Not very cinematic, but quite sensible and safe. We're always sensible and safe, you know. Upon our arrival, we considered napping on some nearby park benches... just in case some Joe-Bradley-esque reporter were to walk by and take pity on our poor, exhausted souls. However, we really weren't that sleepy. Also, we reached the conclusion that having a male stranger cart us off to his apartment during our REM cycles wouldn't be the best idea. See? I told you we are sensible and safe.

We decided that our altered Roman Holiday didn't need a Joe Bradley. Besides, his absence ensured that we were not stalked by a shady photographer. We hope. Despite the fact that there was no Joe Bradley in the picture, we proceeded to follow step one of our Altered Roman Holiday diagram.


Step 1: Visit Joe Bradley's apartment at Via Margutta, 51. (followed closely by Step 1.5: Refrain from appropriating Mr. Bradley's bed. Ahem, Princess Ann)




We then bravely continued with...

Step 2: In an act of aforementioned reckless abandon, remove large amounts of hair. Wait, can you plan reckless abandon? "Scheduled reckless abandon" just doesn't sound quite right. Okay, okay. The haircut was an act of reckless abandon for Ann. For us it was just living on the edge. With just the right amounts of safety and sensibility, of course.




By this time we were getting slightly hungry. So, we jumped eagerly into...

Step 3: Primly and delicately eat gelato on the Spanish Steps. I'm a little bit bitter that Princess Ann's particular step was occupied. It's somewhat difficult to look prim and delicate on the small steps. Nonetheless, we managed.




Step 4: Go to a road-side cafe, and drink something. Princess Ann ordered champagne. We stuck with coffee... always a better idea in the daytime. Side note: the "Rocca's" cafe mentioned in the movie no longer exists, nor does the Wall of Wishes (at least not in its entirety).



Step 5: Head to the Mouth of Truth, insert your hand in a hole containing who knows what, and hope there aren't any lies you've told and forgotten about. Chomp, chomp, chomp.




Step 6: Travel to Ponte Saint Angelo and find a barge. We found the Ponte Saint Angelo, but there were no dancing barges chilling in the Tiber River. Also, we didn't want to risk being whisked away by government agents. So, we passed on the dance party.



Step 7: Return to everyday princess life. Oh wait, we're not princesses.
Revised Step 7: Continue touring Rome. Stop occasionally to reflect on what a burden it would be to be a princess. Enjoy life as a commoner.



Friday, March 5, 2010

Medieval Meanderings

Sydney and I have been hitting up the medieval walled villages of Tuscany lately. First up was San Gimignano (Jim-in-yahn-oh). Sydney fondly calls this place "the random town with towers." They are really into towers. I think they have 13 of them. As we rambled through the stone streets, we came upon a vista with an incredible view of the Tuscan countryside. It's so amazing to round a street corner, and BAM! Tuscany.


As if the sunshine, light breeze, and Tuscan hills weren't enough to create an amazing atmosphere, a harpist softly played the kind of music that simply belongs there.


We meandered around the city walls and took in some more incredible views of vineyards, villas, and olive groves. Photos don't do it justice. Sydney and I selected our own future villas. Mine has a pool :)


Then we visited the medieval fountains. I guess they were for drinking, bathing, etc. I'm hoping the fish are a more recent addition to the fountains. However, bathing with fish probably beat the alternative of not bathing at all.



We climbed the tallest medieval tower still standing, where we found yet another amazing view.


We ate some incredible tiramisu and creme caramel gelato (ironically) in a German gelateria!

Next up was Siena, once one of Florence's major rivals.

This is Siena's town hall, yet another lovely sight spoiled by a stinkin' crane!

We had a pretty authentic Italian lunch at a little hole in the wall. I was a little creeped out by the hunks of prosciutto and salami on my plate, but they were actually good. The restaurant had a total of about 5 tables, which necessitates smaller groups sharing tables. We sat with a couple with a little baby girl. The baby was fussy and wasn't letting her parents eat. Sydney asked "Posso?" meaning "may I?" They gladly passed the baby, who promptly stopped whining and played happily in Sydney's lap.


Of course, Siena had some amazing views. Because that's just how things are around here.


The medievals had a knack for building beautifully quaint little towns nestled in the countryside. Here's to you, dark ages.